When most people think of silk, they think of the smooth, lustrous fabric associated with Chinese sericulture — the cultivated mulberry silk that has been traded along the Silk Road for millennia. It is beautiful. But it is not the only silk in the world.
India is home to a family of wild silks that are, in many ways, more extraordinary — more complex in texture, more rooted in ecology, and more deeply connected to the communities that produce them. At House of Advita, these wild silks are at the heart of what we do.
Here is your guide to the three most important ones.
Kosa Silk: Chhattisgarh's Golden Thread
Kosa silk — also known as Tussar silk from Chhattisgarh — is produced by the wild silkworm Antheraea mylitta, which feeds on the leaves of Arjun and Saja trees in the forests of central India. Unlike cultivated silkworms, which are raised in controlled conditions on mulberry leaves, Kosa silkworms live and spin their cocoons in the wild.
The cocoons are gathered by hand from the forest trees — a process that requires knowledge of the forest, the seasons, and the silkworm's lifecycle. The gathered cocoons are then reeled on traditional charkhas, producing a thread that is coarser and more textured than cultivated silk, but also stronger, more breathable, and deeply individual.
Kosa silk has a naturally warm, golden-beige tone and a slightly textured surface that gives it an earthy, organic character. It drapes beautifully and improves with age — the fibres soften and the lustre deepens with every wear and wash.
Best for: Those who love natural, earthy textures and want a saree that tells a story of the forest.
Tussar Silk: The Wild Silk of the Forests
Tussar silk is a broader category that encompasses several species of wild silkworm across India, including Antheraea mylitta (the Kosa silkworm) and Antheraea paphia. Tussar is produced across a wide belt of central and eastern India, including Jharkhand, Bihar, West Bengal, and Chhattisgarh.
Like Kosa, Tussar silk has a naturally textured surface and a muted, organic lustre. It tends to be slightly lighter in colour than Kosa — ranging from cream to warm beige — and has a characteristic crispness that makes it ideal for sarees with structured drapes and defined borders.
Tussar is one of India's most sustainable textiles. The wild silkworms are gathered from forests that have been managed by tribal communities for generations, creating a model of ecological stewardship that is as old as the craft itself.
Best for: Those who want a saree with structure and presence, and a connection to India's forest traditions.
Muga Silk: Assam's Liquid Gold
Muga silk is perhaps the most extraordinary of India's wild silks — and certainly the rarest. Produced exclusively in Assam by the silkworm Antheraea assamensis, Muga silk has a natural golden sheen that is unlike anything else in the textile world. The colour is not dyed — it is the natural colour of the silk fibre itself, produced by the silkworm's unique biology and the specific plants it feeds on in the Brahmaputra valley.
What makes Muga truly extraordinary is that its golden sheen does not fade with age — it deepens. A Muga silk saree worn and cared for over decades becomes more beautiful, not less. This is why Muga was historically reserved for royalty and is still considered one of India's most precious textiles.
Muga silk has a GI (Geographical Indication) tag, meaning it can only be produced in Assam. It is one of the few natural fibres in the world that is stronger wet than dry, making it exceptionally durable.
Best for: Those who want the rarest, most precious silk — a saree that will outlast generations.
How to Choose
All three of these silks are extraordinary. The right choice depends on what you are looking for:
- For earthy warmth and forest character: Kosa
- For structured elegance and sustainability: Tussar
- For rare, deepening golden luxury: Muga
At House of Advita, we work with all three — because we believe India's wild silk heritage deserves to be celebrated in its full diversity.
— House of Advita